Best derma rollers to improve skin texture and boost hair growth (2024)

Derma rolling may not be a term that you are familiar with, but you’ve probably heard of microneedling as it’s more widely known.

More accurately reflecting the process, microneedling treatments consist of hundreds of tiny needles creating imperceptible microchannels to encourage the skin’s healing process. It might not sound particularly appealing - it may even sound like some form of medieval torture - but is actually generally considered to be minimally invasive and has been clinically proven to improve the skin’s condition. By creating minimally invasive wounds, collagen is boosted in the area – a building block in the skin that declines as we age.

Through supercharging its formation, derma rolling works to improve the look of fine lines, wrinkles and signs of ageing. It also evens out the texture and minimises the appearance of pores. What’s more, your skincare that follows is more effectively absorbed. And it’s not just reserved for the skin – it can be applied to your scalp to stimulate hair growth too.

We reached out to Dr Edel Woods, Aesthetic Doctor and Founder & CEO of Ora Skin Clinic, to find out more about derma rolling.

Dr Woods confirms that “Derma rolling involves repeatedly piercing the skin with tiny needles attached to a roller with the goal being to stimulate collagen for firmer, less wrinkled skin. It’s an at-home or DIY take on the popular and effective in-clinic micro-needling treatment”.

“When used correctly, derma rolling is thought to stimulate the production of new collagen which is useful for reducing acne scars, wrinkles and stretch marks”, says the expert. He stresses though that there is a difference in the efficacity of the professional and at-home treatment. “Unfortunately, at home, derma rolling is not as effective at achieving these goals as in-clinic micro-needling. At-home derma rollers are limited in their length and, therefore, not very effective at improving fine lines, wrinkles or acne scars. In-clinic micro-needling allows precision control of depths ranging from 0.25mm to 3.5mm which allows accurate targeting of different levels within the skin for optimal results”, he reveals.

You must also be very cautious in your approach to microneedling at home. Dr Woods stresses that “At-home derma rollers can also have risks associated with their use including infection or worsening of your skin condition. For example, use of derma rollers when you have active acne or cold sores could risk spreading the infection”.

She continues “The risk of allergy is also a consideration if people use derma rollers to aid the penetration of skincare products deeper into their skin. Some skincare ingredients which are useful when applied on the surface of the skin can be problematic when used deeper in the skin. Undergoing in-clinic micro-needling with a skilled and appropriately qualified practitioner using a medical micro-needling device is the safest way to achieve smoother skin”.

Follow Dr Woods’ guide for a safe and effective derma rolling treatment:

Hygiene is of the utmost importance when it comes to derma rolling but they are not the easiest to keep spic and span. “Correct cleaning is essential and will only be achieved with an isopropyl alcohol solution of 70 per cent or more”, says the aesthetic doctor. “A 70 per cent isopropyl alcohol spray can be an effective and efficient way to ensure your derma roller is well cleaned. You will find this in most pharmacies and high street stores”.

She adds, “Once your derma roller has been saturated in 70 per cent isopropyl alcohol you need to allow it to air dry. Do not allow the roller head to touch any surfaces while it is drying to ensure no contamination. After rolling you should rinse the roller under cool water and repeat the sterilisation process above”.

The microneedling process is not only effective in improving the skin but can work in hair treatments too. According to Dr Woods, “Derma rollers that puncture between 0.5-1mm are more effective at stimulating hair follicles than rollers with shorter penetration depths”.

For the hair not on your head, the doctor highlights that “There is some evidence to suggest that micro-needling can not only help produce collagen, but it may aid beard hair growth by boosting nutrient-rich blood flow to the area. Studies have also suggested that using a derma roller in combination with topical minoxidil can improve the absorption and effectiveness of this well-known hair growth product”.

While there is no downtime in the treatment, you need to give your skin a chance to recover between treatments and so for that reason, Dr Woods says “We do not recommend using your derma roller more than 1-2 times per week. If you are derma rolling with a penetration greater than 1mm we recommend using your roller once every fortnight and for depths greater than 1.5mm we recommend derma rolling once per month”.

“On balance derma rolling is safe however it does carry some risks including infection scarring, allergy and increased skin sensitivity”, she concludes. “The efficacy of derma rolling is questionable too given the various devices available, their shorter penetration depth and the varied skills of those using them at home. In-clinic micro-needling treatments are an overall better, safer and more effective way to achieve smoother, plumper, less wrinkled skin”.

If you are not able to splash out for professional derma rolling, see below for the at-home tools to add to your anti-ageing skincare routine.