Josie Hester explores the reasons behind the recent rise in prices for thrifting, which used to be affordable.
Published in · 5 min read · Feb 28, 2023
Enter: the thrift store. Savers, Goodwill, you name it. It might not look like much from the inside (or the outside quite honestly), but the gems that can be found hidden are surprisingly amazing. While searching through the endless racks of somewhat worn, somewhat smelly clothing, the ultimate grandpa sweater appears. It has to be cheap, right!? It’s some grandpa’s old, used, worn, gross sweater. WRONG. $17.99 the price tag reads. That’s right. Nearly $18 for a used sweater that the thrift store received for free. So, what’s going on? Why have thrift store prices become nearly equivalent to mall prices?
It’s easy to blame resellers on apps like Depop. It seems that resellers are the ones buying out thrift stores and marking up prices. While this contributes to the problem, as it causes competition for thrift stores, corporate greed is also to blame. What people often do not realize is that thrift stores like Savers and Goodwill are corporate. Both companies are for-profit. Corporate thrift stores are able to receive products for free, sell the products at high markups, and get away with it.
Thrift stores originally were created for a variety of reasons. Religious-affiliated ones used the profits to fund outreach programs. Other thrift stores would hire disabled and/or poor people, oftentimes in exchange for food and housing. Now, according to an article by Olivia B. Waxman of Time Magazine, thrift stores have become over a $14 billion dollar industry. What happened to helping others?
On the front door of Savers reads a sign, “We are a for-profit organization that champions reuse. Shopping here does not support any nonprofit, but donating your clothing and household items does! We pay our nonprofit partners for your stuff, helping them fund programs in our community.”
The same information can be found on the Savers website. The information is conflicting, as there are no nonprofit partners listed anywhere near this statement, on the door or online.
Similarly, Goodwill makes some contradicting statements. On their website, they claim to help their employees improve their lives by assisting them to grow in their positions and find a career. According to an article by the Colorado Springs Business Journal, from January 2023, though, some of Goodwill’s disabled employees make as little as $1.44 an hour. It is estimated that Goodwill pays around 7,300 disabled employees way below minimum wage.
So, why are the prices so high? As a child, I grew up in a lower-middle-class household. The thrift stores were the only place my family would shop because a full outfit would be under $10. After a recent trip to Goodwill, I was able to document some of the insane prices. $79.99 for a used wedding dress. $14.99 for a used, out-of-season dress.
Savers has explicitly stated that they are a for-profit company, despite receiving all products as donations. The popularity of thrifting has created an inflation in the prices these thrift companies can get away with.
The modern generation is also quick to blame TikTok and reselling apps for the rise of thrift prices. And, while not the main contributor, these apps have proved to be a threat to thrift stores. Several content creators on TikTok have devoted their content to solely creating thrifting videos and showing off what they are selling on Depop. Below is a list of creators who have made their content dedicated to thrifting. These are just a few examples. Searching simply for the word “thrift” on TikTok will generate an endless list of thrifting content creators.
This content has created an uptick in thrift store sales and what TikTok has named “resellers.”
A reseller is a person who buys large amounts of items from thrift stores, then resells them on online reselling platforms, such as Depop, for a much higher price.
While scrolling through Depop, it is easy to recognize that the prices are significantly higher than the thrift stores, which already sell their pieces for record-breaking prices. The sole difference between thrift stores and resellers is that resellers are buying their products.
Thrift stores have everything donated to them. Resellers are taking the time to sift through racks of clothing to create a curated collection of items, which they then purchase. Although it may seem unethical, this is what fast fashion companies often do- purchase from manufacturers to then sell at a higher price.
While resellers and TikTok can be blamed for a rise in the interest in thrifting, they can not be fully to blame for the high prices. At the end of the day, corporations are the ones deciding the prices of their donated products. Reselling would not be a trend if it were not successful.
Thrifting does not have to be a trend of the past. Despite the raised prices, it does have its benefits. Buying secondhand is great for the environment. Pieces that are purchased at a thrift store are much less likely to end up in a landfill.
Before shopping at a corporate thrift store, see if there are any local thrift stores in your area. Often times these are non-profit stores that benefit a good cause. Plus, the prices are noticeably cheaper. Some thrift stores, such as the ASPCA Thrift Store offer bins, where you can buy clothing and other items by the pound. Thrifting is a great alternative to supporting fast fashion and corporations, as long as it stays local and supports a cause.
