Sarah Marshall
Revered for their superb landscapes, quirky cultures and their ability to nurture the finer details of life, the six main Nordic nations have a lot in common. Choosing the best one to visit can be difficult.
Despite their shared latitudes, these countries are wildly different. When it comes to good looks, Norway steals the show with soaring mountains and photogenic fjords. Greenland rates high on solitude; Finland charms with fairy-tale forests; and Iceland is simply like no other place on Earth.
But a Nordic holiday is about much more than appreciating the scenery. Both Denmark and Sweden have fascinating pasts, told through Viking ruins and well-preserved castles and palaces. Copenhagen is at the forefront of a New Nordic culinary scene, while Stockholm is a hub of hipster bars and cafés.
And let’s not forget those special qualities that make a country unique – whether it’s a penchant for sweating in saunas or a passion for carving ice hotels. We’ve rated each according to various criteria. Let’s see which comes out best.
Skip to your favourite place...
- Sweden
- Norway
- Iceland
- Denmark
- Finland
- Greenland
Sweden
City cool
More island-hopping heaven than commuter hell, capital Stockholm and second city Gothenburg belong to scenic archipelagos. Sustainably small yet big enough to create a buzz, both have gourmet restaurants and trendy bars. You’ll find great co*cktails at both Akkurat and Pharmarium in Stockholm’s hipster district, Sodermalm; and seasonal champion Bhoga is one of Gothenburg’s five Michelin-starred spots. In Swedish Lapland, in the far north, the Treehotel and Arctic Bath are cool places to stay.
History and culture
With 15 Unesco World Heritage sites – more than any other Nordic nation – the Swedes showcase their riches. Rock carvings in Tanum date from the Bronze Age; Visby, on Gotland, is a fine example of a Hanseatic town; and Gammelstad, near Lulea, has a 15th-century church and red clapboard cottages. Museums are entertainingly diverse, too – from the Disgusting Food Museum, in Malmo, to Stockholm’s triumphant ode to Abba, stacked with spangly memorabilia.
Outdoor adventure
Swedish Lapland excels at winter adventures: dog-sledding, snowshoeing and skiing are possible. But it’s the lesser-known summer spots that set the destination apart. Tackle an intrepid rock climb at Europe’s biggest via ferrata centre at Skuleberget, with views across the High Coast, or hike across Fulufjallet National Park in Dalarna to discover the 9,565-year-old Old Tjikko tree.
Practicalities
The instability of the Swedish krona means prices are almost on a par with London. Public transport is decent, with ferries, trams and generous bike lanes within cities. The train network reaches right up to the Arctic Circle, and the introduction of an overnight sleeper service from Berlin to Stockholm means that it is now possible to travel all the way from London by train.
X Factor
The Icehotel has been freshly carved in Jukkasjarvi since 1989. Crayfish parties, held in August and September, have also been a tradition since the 16th century.
Total score: 8/10
How to do it
An eight-day Sweden at a Glance fly- drive, visiting Stockholm, Gothenburg and Dalarna, costs from £1,755, with B&B accommodation and car hire (01174 539 892; regent-holidays.co.uk).
Back to index
Norway
City cool
Unfairly accused of being drab and boring, strait-laced Oslo has loosened its collar in recent years with a raft of grown-up hotels, such as the Thief and Sommerro. The heat has also been turned up on a sizzling sauna scene: relax in a barrel at waterside Salt, or sweat and sightsee on a floating Kok raft. In central Norway, the Trondelag region offers an abundance of artisanal produce and is the champion of the Norwegian food scene. Up in the far north, the Arctic gateway of Tromso is a hub for adventure-seekers, soon to be connected to the UK with several direct flights.
History and culture
The redeveloped waterfront of Aker Brygge has transformed Oslo. Its architectural marvels include an opera house where you can admire spectacular views of the city as you walk on its vast marble-covered roof, the Munch Museum, with its rooftop co*cktail bar and terrace, and several leading contemporary-art galleries. Equally aesthetically pleasing are the colourful houses at Bergen’s Bryggen wharf and the art-nouveau buildings of Alesund.
Outdoor adventure
Few places trump the splendour of Norway’s spiky mountains, deep valleys and narrow fjords. For high-rise, scenic hikes, Lofoten and Senja are unbeatable. Or hike up to Pulpit Rock, a sheer cliff with a flat top, which rises nearly 2,000ft above the Lysefjord. Above the Arctic Circle, dramatic backdrops intensify the thrill of seeing the northern lights.
Practicalities
Beauty has historically come at a price, but a devalued currency means Norway is now much cheaper for most of us. Besides, most of the key attractions are outdoors and free. During the summer, an excellent network of electric ferries connects the islands. But to make the most of the destination, you’ll need a car. Coastal weather can be stormy and unpredictable, especially as the seasons switch.
X Factor
Wildlife sightings are top-class. See polar bears and walruses on a summer cruise through the Svalbard archipelago, snorkel with orcas off the coast north of Tromso, and track musk oxen in the fells of Dovrefjell.
Total score: 9/10
How to do it
A five-day Highlights of Norway trip, visiting Oslo and Bergen, costs from £945, including flights (020 7664 2234; best-served.co.uk).
Back to index
Iceland
City cool
In a country with fewer than 400,000 people, it might be hard to generate any sort of scene. But Icelanders succeed. Bars along the capital Reykjavik’s main drag pulse with off-kilter music, and edgy acts perform at the Airwaves music festival every November, in venues such as galleries and even public pools. Second city Akureyri is slowly shaping an identity in the north.
History and culture
Collectors of oddities, Icelanders have a passion for museums. In the capital, Perlan gives an introduction to the geological landscape, and Marshall House showcases modern art. Go further afield to the Westfjords region and the themes get weirder – including a hall dedicated to sea-monster sightings, and a museum of Sorcery and Witchcraft, exhibiting a pair of “necropants” (made by skinning a dead man from the waist).
Outdoor adventure
Explosive geysers, thundering waterfalls, bubbling mud pools and crystal ice caves make this a land of unique experiences. Crawl through a lava tunnel on the Snaefellsnes peninsula, ice climb over the Vatnajokull glacier or snorkel between two tectonic plates at Silfra. The Highland Base resort, below the Kerlingarfjoll mountain range, has opened up the Central Highlands region.
Practicalities
Coach tours connect popular attractions such as the Blue Lagoon and the Golden Circle, but a car is ideal to explore further. Although geared up for van life, free camping is banned. During peak summer season, campsites must be booked in advance. In fact, crowds are Iceland’s biggest drawback, best avoided by visiting in shoulder seasons or hitting remote areas such as the Westfjords. According to the Global Peace Index, Iceland is the safest country in the world.
X Factor
From raw, steaming wilderness spots to polished designer spas, geothermal energy fuels hundreds of hot springs. Bathe in splendour at Reykjavik’s Sky Lagoon, Akureyri’s Forest Lagoon and the caldera-edge Myvatn Nature Baths.
Total score: 7.5/10
How to do it
A 14-night Around Iceland self-drive tour, circumnavigating Iceland on the Route 1 ring road, costs from £2,142, including B&B accommodation and car hire. Flights extra (01737 428 376; discover-the-world.com).
Back to index
Denmark
City cool
Effortless dressing is a Nordic trademark and Copenhagen wears the trend best. Everything about the city is stylish – from the sprawling pavement restaurants along the colourful Nyhavn waterfront to cosy “hygge” cafés in multicultural Norrebro. The New Nordic food scene was born here at the hallowed Noma restaurant, which is closing next year. Regardless, places such as Host, with its use of speciality Nordic ingredients and seasonal greens, still intrigue. Although hugely overshadowed, second city Aarhus sparkles with Arne Jacobsen architecture.
History and culture
Home to one of the world’s oldest monarchies, Denmark is dotted with enchanting fairy-tale castles. See the crown jewels at Rosenborg, in Copenhagen, or channel Hamlet at Kronborg Castle, where Shakespeare set his play. There’s a rich Viking heritage, too: find longboats at the Viking Ship Museum, in Roskilde, and decipher the runic alphabet at Jelling.
Outdoor adventure
It can be hard to be inspired by largely flat terrain. On the plus side, it’s good for cycling. In the absence of elevation, the natural attraction is an extended coastline. Sandy shores and pebble beaches stretch 5,400 miles around a jigsaw of almost 1,500 islands. In the north, Rabjerg Mile is northern Europe’s largest migrating sand dune. Blustery West Zealand is ideal for windsurfing, while the crumbling chalk cliffs of Mon make the Baltic look like the Indian Ocean.
Practicalities
Friendly, laid-back and sociable, Danes buck the aloof Scandi stereotype. The country is small enough to cross with its decent train, ferry and bus network, and there are several great cycling routes. Flights from the UK to Copenhagen and Billund are a short two-hour hop. A warming climate makes Baltic and North Sea beach breaks a possibility.
X Factor
The world’s first Lego brick was laid in Billund and an empire has since been built. The Legoland Billund Resort amusem*nt park is a family favourite.
Total score: 7/10
How to do it
An eight-day Royal Denmark tour, visiting Copenhagen, Middelfart, Graasten and Esberg, costs from £1,410, including B&B accommodation, car hire, ferry travel and flights (020 4586 1018; best-served.co.uk).
Back to index
Finland
City cool
Quietly becoming one of Europe’s quirkiest city breaks, art-nouveau capital Helsinki has a lot to shout about: its most luxurious hotel to date, the Hotel Maria, opened last year; the art scene is booming with a successful biennale; and a food movement is evolving with restaurants such as the kitsch Yes Yes Yes, Michelin-starred ROOM by Kozeen Shiwan and the Finnish food champion Skord. Skateboard on a gallery rooftop at Amos Rex, thrift shop in Kallio or hire an electric guitar and recording studio at progressive public library Oodi. In addition, the red-brick city of Tampere has a lively craft-beer scene.
History and culture
It’s just over 100 years since the country declared independence, and its troubled past is documented in military barracks and forts around the Helsinki archipelago. More idyllic spots are the cobblestoned city of Porvoo and the former capital, Turku. This is also the home of Moominworld (arguably Finland’s greatest creation) – although Tampere’s Moomin Museum is far superior. Fiskars Village, in the west, is an arts-and-crafts enclave, and design giants Iittala, Marimekko and Arabia can be found in Helsinki’s shoppable Design District.
Outdoor adventure
About 75 per cent of the country is covered in forest – more than anywhere else in Europe. Hiking trails wind through multiple national parks, where cabins stocked with firewood are free to use. Lemmenjoki National Park, in the north, is a sprawling wilderness of waterfalls, lichen-draped pines and edible berries. Above the Arctic Circle, conditions are perfect for aurora viewing, especially in the Sami heartland of Inari. This is also the land of a thousand lakes, inviting swims and kayak trips.
Practicalities
Despite their dour demeanour, the Finns are an entertaining bunch. It is repeatedly named the world’s happiest country for good reason. Part of the eurozone, costs are lower than the other Nordics. Winter temperatures in the north can plunge to –25C – but if the skies are clear, that heightens the chance of seeing the Northern Lights.
X Factor
A place to relax and debate, saunas are sacred in Finland. You’ll find the highest number of public saunas in Tampere, including the lakeside Rauhaniemi. In Helsinki, Loyly is an upscale glass-walled hothouse overlooking the Baltic. For an island adventure, try Lonna, a short ferry ride from Helsinki’s Market Square.
Score: 9.5/10
How to do it
An eight-day Finland’s Golden Triangle trip, visiting Helsinki, Tampere and Turku, costs from £1,175, including B&B accommodation, train tickets and flights (01174 539 892; regent-holidays.co.uk).
Back to index
Greenland
City cool
Nuuk is the largest city in Greenland, though its population is only 20,000. Its strength lies in its obscurity; score immediate bragging points for even saying you’ve been. Despite a few teething problems, a new airport should improve access to a thriving street-art scene and café culture. Another airport is planned for Ilulissat, a tourist town dominated by the iceberg graveyard of Disko Bay. Highlights in Sisimiut, the second largest town, include an open-air pool and a church gate made from a whalebone.
History and culture
In a land with little development, the cultural highlight is the indigenous Inuit community. One of the best ways to experience local culture is by joining a cruise visiting villages along the east coast. Although there are few remains, the 4,000-year-old settlement of Sermermiut, in the west, is a pleasant hike. In the green south, Qaqortoq town features stone carvings by local artists, and nearby Hvalsey island has several Viking ruins from the reign of Erik the Red.
Outdoor adventure
On both land and sea, this is a country made for intrepid explorers: hike through the pastures of South Greenland, glamping at Camp Kiattua; or trek across the ice cap from Kangerlussuaq.
Practicalities
Dominated by a giant ice cap covering 80 per cent of its surface, Greenland isn’t an easy country to navigate. Cruise ships operate fixed itineraries along the east and west coastlines in the summer. If you’re going independently, the only options are to fly between destinations or to take Arctic Umiaq Line’s Sarfaq Ittuk coastal ferry from north to south between May and January. It’s generally chilly throughout the year and storms can disrupt travel plans.
X Factor
One of our last true wilderness regions, Greenland can be frustratingly challenging to conquer, but that’s its charm.
Total score: 7/10
How to do it
A five-day Short Break in Ilulissat and Kangerlussuaq costs from £2,275, including accommodation, some meals and selected excursions, and flights from Iceland. Flights to Iceland extra (020 7550 9251; magneticnorthtravel.com).
Back to index
Overall winner
It’s a tough battle between mountains, volcanoes, ice caps and forests, but when it comes to a balance of hip cities, heart-stirring landscapes and a general feeling of welcomeness and quirky Nordic oddities, Finland has the edge.
This article was first published in October 2023, and has been revised and updated.
