How many frames should you put in a Langstroth box? (2024)
Recently, my friend Phillip at Mud Songs.org wrote about the pros and cons of using 9 frames in a 10-frame Langstroth. He began by writing about honey supers and then segued into brood boxes as well. Since I’m sort of a renegade on this subject, I thought I would add my two cents to the discussion.
Many beekeepers use ten frames in the brood boxes and nine frames in the honey supers. As far as I can tell, this is the most common variation from the normal “ten frames in every box” philosophy. The reason for using only nine frames in the honey supers is that, given the extra space, the bees will build the honeycombs slightly wider. These wider combs hold more honey. Whether nine wide combs hold more honey than ten narrower combs, I really don’t know.
However, if you are using an extractor, you first have to open the honey cells with an uncapping knife. This step is definitely easier to accomplish when the combs are wider. If you plan to extract, this might be a good way to go. The one downside is that you have to make sure your nine frames are spaced evenly in the box if you want all your honeycombs to be the same width.
Most beekeepers seem to prefer using ten frames in the brood boxes—and for good reasons. There is really no benefit to having extra wide spaces for raising brood, and ten frames provide more area for the brood nest, so this makes sense.
Personally, I do something totally different—I use nine frames in the brood boxes and ten frames in the honey supers and here’s why:
I find that ten frames in the brood box become so jammed I can’t easily do a hive inspection. So I like to put nine frames in the center of the brood box and leave the extra space at the ends. During an inspection, I slide the first frame into the empty space and then lift it out. Then each successive frame can be pulled straight over to the side and lifted. There is very little chance of rolling the queen with this system.
If you use nine frames in the brood box you can add follower boards on each end (also known as dummy boards). These can lessen the chances of swarming by providing the bees a place to “hang out” without keeping the brood nest too warm in summer. In the winter, they provide insulation against the outside walls.
I like ten frames in the honey supers because I don’t extract. Ten frames give me more square inches of cut-comb honey. In addition, I find that with cut-comb honey, it is easier to make nice clean cuts if the comb is not too thick.
Phillip was able to dig up a lot of opinions from the Internet on the nine-frame vs. ten-frame issue, many of which I cannot verify from my own experience. For example:
[regarding nine-frame honey supers] “Nine-frame spacing acts as a natural queen excluder because queens prefer 10-frame spacing.” I wish it were that simple! I’ve even had queens lay in section boxes which in no way resemble 10-frame spacing.
[regarding nine-frame brood boxes] “The bees will build drone comb in the extra space on the two outer frames and everything else will become worker-sized cells.” That would be a beekeeper’s dream come true! But sorry, it just doesn’t work that way. Usually drone comb is built at the perimeter of each comb. Remember, the bees are not trying to please you—they’ve got a totally different agenda.
As with many other aspects of beekeeping, I think the decision on how many frames to use in a box should be based on personal preference and what type of honey you will be producing. Experiment until you find a system you like.
Pollinators, bee breeders and many hobbyists also usually utilize all 10 frames. Using 10 frames allows 10% more capacity for brood
brood
In beekeeping, bee brood or brood refers to the eggs, larvae and pupae of honeybees. The brood of Western honey bees develops within a bee hive. In man-made, removable frame hives, such as Langstroth hives, each frame which is mainly occupied by brood is called a brood frame.
laying than 9 frames would. At Wildflower Meadows, since we are more focused on queen and bee breeding than honey production, we prefer to use 10 frames per box.
The hive body or hive super holds 8 to 10 frames that are standardized in length. The frames hold the foundation and the honeycomb that is built on it. Hive equipment manufacturers often produce bodies and supers that vary slightly. The differences between manufacturers are generally 1⁄8 of an inch (3 mm) or less.
Some beekeepers also prefer to use nine frames in ten frame brood boxes in order, as you said, to make the box less crowded and make frames easier to remove and replace. I would never suggest using eight frames in a brood box. Bees treat brood comb a little differently than comb for storing excess honey.
As it says in the name, 10-frame boxes hold 10 frames and 8-frame boxes hold 8 frames. There are many advantages and disadvantages to each type, and each beekeeper you talk to will have different opinions on which type you should use.
While bees are drawing foundation for the first year, you should provide 10 frames for a 10 frame hive or 8 frames for an 8 frame box. Generally, you should ensure no more than a space of ¼ to â…œ of an inch (6 to 9 mm) between your frames and from other parts of the hive.
If you are using a medium super for honey you need 10 medium frames per box. If you are using a shallow super for honey you need 10 shallow frames per box.
Pollinators, bee breeders and many hobbyists also usually utilize all 10 frames. Using 10 frames allows 10% more capacity for brood laying than 9 frames would. At Wildflower Meadows, since we are more focused on queen and bee breeding than honey production, we prefer to use 10 frames per box.
In most cases, yes. Getting the dead colony's frames and other hive equipment ready for future bees is important. There are only a few cases when the combs cannot be used again. Careful examination of combs and some simple choices and small cleanup tasks will give your new bees a jumpstart in spring.
Using them is essentially the same as 10 frame boxes, though you need to remember that each box holds fewer frames and less honey. Not only are 8 frame boxes lighter, but their narrowness more closely matches the width of a slighter person's hips and shoulders.
In brood boxes, up to twelve frames can be used, but (once propolised), twelve frames are typically too tight a fit for easy use, and eleven frames (with, perhaps, a dummy board filling the space) are more common; in honey supers, between nine and twelve can be used, depending on the spacing chosen.
Beekeepers often transfer frames of brood from one colony to another, either to boost the populations of small colonies, or to reduce the strength of colonies in an effort to prevent swarming.
The most common way is to put the frames back in the supers just harvested and put the supers back on your hives. Then in a few days, the bees will have cleaned up the mess and you're left with a super full of clean, dry, not sticky frames.
A brood frame is a frame that the queen has laid eggs in, and they are raising brood. It is usually a deep frame but can also be a medium frame. A honey super frame is a frame in which the bees store excess honey in, which is typically a medium frame.
Generally, lots of full sun is ideal to keep the hives warm and dry, with some shade in the hottest hours of the afternoon. In areas with very hot summers, however, a shadier spot will be better. Wind chill is another environmental factor to consider.
Utilize a hive stand or cinder blocks to elevate the hive 12 to 18 inches off of the ground to keep it safe from skunks and other animals which may want to disturb the hive. Place a large rock on top or strap down your hive to keep it safe from raccoons, wind, etc.
It's also important to think about your honey bees' comfort within the hive. The more compact 8-frame hive box is more optimal than the 10-frame hive. The 8-frame proves particularly beneficial in the winter, as it provides a cozier, better-insulated home for the bees' cluster.
In a top bar hive, there are no frames. There are pieces of wood that hang on the top of the inside of the box and the bees build their comb off these bars. There are usually 20-28 bars which mean the bees can build that many combs.
In brood boxes, up to twelve frames can be used, but (once propolised), twelve frames are typically too tight a fit for easy use, and eleven frames (with, perhaps, a dummy board filling the space) are more common; in honey supers, between nine and twelve can be used, depending on the spacing chosen.
Inside the hive body and honey super are 10 frames, which bees use to create comb for raising brood and producing honey. Be aware that bees may instinctively move up the hive instead of using all available frames. Langstroth beehives are available in wood and plastic.
Introduction: My name is Merrill Bechtelar CPA, I am a clean, agreeable, glorious, magnificent, witty, enchanting, comfortable person who loves writing and wants to share my knowledge and understanding with you.
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