If when the idea of perms—a chemical treatment that utilizes heat to change the texture of hair—comes to mind, you immediately think of the 1980s and 1990s, you're not alone. Celebrities like Brooke Shields, Julia Roberts, and even Justin Timberlake sported the signature curls that made the hair treatment a household name. Today's perm types, however, are long-lasting and provide more subtle, natural-looking body and waves.
The hair transformations we've seen on social media don't lie; the end result of a beach wave perm is an undulating, mermaid-esque wave that, despite their valiant efforts, our creams, sprays, and curling irons can never quite re-create. However, as with any intensive and costly beauty treatment, we had some questions and concerns. We tapped celebrity colorist and stylist Tabitha Dueñas and salon owner Shelley Saunders to get some answers.
Before booking your next salon visit, keep reading to learn all about the beach wave perm.
Meet the Experts
- Tabitha Dueñas is a celebrity colorist and stylist at Nine Zero One Salon in West Hollywood. With 14 years of professional experience, she has worked on numerous NYFW shows, including leading the Stella McCartney Resort 2013.
- Shelley Saunders is a professional hairstylist and salon owner in Pittsburgh.
What Is a Beach Wave Perm?
A traditional perm uses an intense mixture of heat and chemicals to break and (somewhat) restructure the original bond composition of the hair strand. To create the curl, the hair is wrapped around a hard rod with additional product to enforce the hair's new ultra-coiled shape. So what sets the beach-wave perm apart? According to Dueñas, harsh chemicals are still involved, but the difference lies in the products and tools that are used by the stylist.
Beach Wave Perms vs. Traditional Perms
"The beach wave is different from traditional perms because it's a specific technique with special products used. Soft, sponge-like rollers are used, as opposed to [traditional] hard perm rods. I use Arrojo American Waving solution for the beach wave." The other good news? She tells us it's free of ammonia and doesn't smell like rotten eggs (music to our ears).
And, as Saunders notes, a beach wave perm does share some similarities with the perms of the 1980s. "A modernpermis similar to apermdone years and years ago," she says. "The difference would be thecut and style of the hair to get an effortlesswave like Sarah Jessica Parker or Jenifer Lopez. Straight hair can be transformedinto permanent spirals and curls byperming.In order to create waves or curls in the hair, chemicals are used to break and reset the bonds in the hair."
Cost
Brace yourself: Though the cost will depend on the salon and stylist you see, Dueñas tells us that pricing typically starts at around $500 for this kind of specialized treatment. In other words, you may want to start packing a work lunch and say goodbye to delivery fees for a while. Time-wise, the process will set you back about two to three hours in the salon chair.
Safety and Hair Type Considerations
Since the perm process is potentially damaging and rather intensive, chemical-wise, Dueñas only recommends the beach-wave perm for people with coarse, thick, and straight hair. If your strands are fine and/or color-treated, you'll run the risk of severe breakage and damage. Another tip? Mind your cut. "It's best to cut your hair first and add a few layers to encourage movement," Dueñas explains.
How Long Will it Last?
"The results are semi-permanent, lasting about four months. Plus, as your hair grows out, there won't be any harsh demarcation," Dueñas tells us. And just in case you've never seen Legally Blonde, Dueñas warns us that it's also best to avoid washing your hair for at least a day or two post-perm. It's not necessarily required, but avoiding a rinse will help a lot to maintain the integrity of yourwaves.
How to Style a Beach Wave Perm
According to the experts, waves will remain tight for the first two weeks after you get the beach-wave perm; then, you'll start to see a 20% reduction in bend. Although you can use a curling iron safely anytime post-treatment, this is a great time to go in on your own and add some extra wave. "The best way to care forpermedhair is by using the right styling tools to work with your curls," says Saunders. She recommends the VodanaGlamwave Curling Iron. "The snag-free clamp and specially coated ceramic barrel reduce heat damage and frizz, which will help your modern perm to stay for long-lasting wear." Due to the nature of the treatment, these added curls should last for about a week.
Dueñas also tells us that if you're in the habit of curling your hair every day (thus exposing your strands to lots of heat), in the long run, the beach-wave perm will actually save you time and damage—especially if your natural hair type is coarse and heavy. In terms of products, day-to-day styling should be pretty low-maintenance.
"With new texture comes the need for new products," she tells us. Try scrunching in a frothy moussewhile the hair is still wet to encourage wave and separation. Or, to moisturize and silken, you can run a hydration-packed styling cream through your ends before allowing them to air dry."
The Final Takeaway
Unlike traditional perms, which can produce tighter curls, beach perms produce soft, tousled waves. The process usually involves applying a chemical solution, heat, and rods to the hair to restructure the original bond composition of the strands, changing the overall texture and shape. The results are semi-permanent, lasting about four months. Those with coarse, thick, or straight hair are best suited to receive the treatment. Before getting a perm, it's important to discuss your hair type, maintenance, and desired curl with your hairstylist.
